Restaurant Workers Target Diners In Living Wage Campaign
WASHINGTON
-- It's been a busy few months at Restaurant Opportunities
Centers United, a scrappy non-profit that advocates for low-wage
restaurant workers. To be more exact, it's been a busy few months trying to
shame -- and, in less visible cases, praise -- some of the country's most
prominent restaurants.
The
New York-based organization released a Zagat-style "Diner's Guide" to the nation's
restaurants last fall. But rather than critique the beef carpaccio or lamb rib
chops, the guide details working conditions, listing whether workers receive
decent pre-tip wages or sick days. Longhorn Steakhouse, among others, received
a frowny-face rating, which the group says denotes "alleged illegal
practices."
Then,
late last month, workers affiliated with the group filed a federal lawsuit against
The Capital Grille, accusing the restaurant chain of relegating minority
employees to less desirable jobs and shorting workers on wages in New York,
Chicago and Washington, D.C. The lawsuit is part of a broader campaign launched
by Restaurant Opportunities Centers United against The Capital Grille's parent
owner, Darden Restaurants, whose holdings include
Olive Garden, Red Lobster and Longhorn Steakhouse.
Restaurant
Opportunities Centers United's "Dignity at Darden"
campaign accuses the company and its managers of paying "poverty
wages," denying employees paid sick days and requiring them to work during
breaks. On a website that all but wags a finger in Darden's face, the group
urges the company to "have the courage to be a real leader and lift up
industry standards." A Darden spokesman denied the charges, adding that
Darden management reached out to the group about specific allegations before
the lawsuit was filed, only to be rebuffed.
Restaurant
Opportunities Centers United "doesn’t seem to be interested in the
facts," said Rich Jeffers, a Darden spokesman. "We believe all the
allegations are baseless." Darden employs 180,000 people, and roughly 30
percent of its managers are minorities and 41 percent are women, according to
Jeffers.
Saru
Jayaraman, a co-founder of Restaurant Opportunities Center United, said she
stands by the lawsuit and the campaign against Darden. She was quick to add
that the problems her group alleges aren't unique to that company.
"It
has to do with the industry culture and a lobby that Darden is a big part of,
that fights to keep the minimum wage low in an industry of occupational
segregation," Jayaraman argued. "Darden is a part of it."
As
for the negative publicity her group has been foisting on some restaurants,
Jayaraman said it's mostly about raising awareness among consumers rather than
employers or workers. The group's members, taking a cue from successful PR
campaigns by environmental groups, seem to believe that the best way to change
the employment practices inside restaurants is to involve diners. "The
larger campaign is to engage consumers in changing the restaurant
industry," Jayaraman said. "Ten years ago, consumers were asking
restaurants, 'Is this sustainable food? Is this organically grown?' And the
restaurant industry responded. I think the more that consumers ask and require
and discuss with restaurants -- What's your lowest paid wage? Do you provide
sick days? -- the more they’ll see they need to get ahead of the trend."
The
first branch of Restaurant Opportunities Center United was founded after the
Sept. 11 attacks to support displaced World Trade Center restaurant workers.
The group now has branches in eight cities and includes 8,000 workers, having
attracted restaurant employees like Kristin Vieira, a former New York server
who's named in the lawsuit against The Capital Grille. "For a server, the
money is definitely great, but at a certain point it's not worth the money
anymore," Vieira said. "We just felt like they weren’t going to
listen to us, and we feel like it could be a great place to work."
Among
Restaurant Opportunities Center United's pet issues are the tipped minimum wage
and paid sick days. The minimum wage for servers and other workers who receive
tips is lower than the normal minimum wage in most states. The current tipped
federal rate is $2.13 per hour -- compared with $7.25 for other workers --
although the restaurant is obliged to make up the difference if a server
doesn't reach the normal minimum wage after tips. The group has found an ally
in Rep. Donna Edwards (D-Md.), who introduced legislation last year that would
raise the federal tipped rate.
The
National Restaurant Association has been less enthusiastic about the group's
campaigns, particularly the diner's guide. "ROC’s purported dining guide
is a transparent attempt to disparage many of America’s restaurants, an
industry which provides opportunities for millions of Americans to move up the
ladder and succeed," Sue Hensley, the group's senior vice president for
public affairs, said in a statement. "ROC 'reports' are opinion surveys
and not an empirical analysis of the facts.... Even in a challenging economy,
the restaurant industry has continued to be one of the country’s leading job
creators, and for thousands of individuals -- from all backgrounds -- these
jobs lead to management and ownership opportunities."
By
winning, say, paid sick days for some workers, Restaurant Opportunities Center
United's campaign wouldn’t be the first time public pressure changed workplace
policy within the food supply chain. Earlier this month, Trader Joe's signed a "fair food
agreement" with the Coalition of Immokalee Workers, a
worker advocacy group of mostly immigrant workers who pick tomatoes and other
crops in Florida. Trader Joe's had long resisted signing the agreement, but
caved after months of protests outside stores. Taco Bell and McDonald's, among
others, had already signed the agreement, which requires grocers and
restaurants to pay a penny more per pound of tomatoes to help provide better
working conditions for pickers.
Worker
groups typically encounter strong pushback on these issues from industry
lobbies, which often claim that higher wages or paid sick days will raise costs
and kill jobs. The restaurant industry in Florida, for instance, is now trying
to have the minimum wage for servers lowered there.
And the National Restaurant Association poured more than $100,000 into a
successful effort to stymie a ballot initiative for paid sick
days in Denver.
According
to Jayaraman, many of the diners she meets are surprised to learn that the
minimum wage for servers is as low as it is, or that some workers can't take a
day off when they're sick without losing a day's pay. "It’s a pervasive
argument of the industry, that these are transient jobs and therefore it's OK
that people get paid little," Jayaraman said. "We talk to consumers
everywhere we go. There's a lack of education. When they find out a large company
doesn’t provide paid sick days or pays as little as $2.13, the consumers are
outraged."
Of
course, plenty of restaurants do offer their workers paid sick days, and plenty
also pay more than the bare-legal minimum before tips. Restaurant Opportunities
Center United has been trying to draw attention to these eateries, calling them
out in their guide as "high-road restaurants." Among them is La
Palapa, a casual Mexican joint in New York City whose owner, Barbara Sibley,
said she empathizes with the servers, bussers and dishwashers who work for her.
"Restaurant
work is hard," Sibley said. "But running a restaurant right is
profitable. If I can run a restaurant right and profit, then anyone can."
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